Quote:
Originally Posted by safetyfish
I went through the whole installation process in my mind thinking if and where I messed up. The evidence is just not there. Not that it is any concellation because the repair bill is going to be huge regardless. But it would be nice to understand what went wrong though.....
The only thing I can remember that bugged me then was the fact that the oil level was perfect in the sight glass before I went on holiday two weeks back. When I came back from holiday I changed the belts and noticed that the oil level covered the whole sightglass screen. I did start the bike, let it idle for 10 seconds and then switched it off and checked the sight glass again. There was no milk in the oil and the level eased out at the top mark having left the bike standing for about 3 to 4 minutes. (My thought was that the water pump seal may have allowed water to pass into the gear casing causing the rise in the oil level.) If that was the case then the oil should have turned white almost instantly if the engine was allowed to run for a few seconds.
SF
|
Hi,
I'm sorry to hear about your trouble.
The water pump seal failed on my bike (851/916sp) and the fully snth' oil floated on the water, raising the site glass level.
The oil didn't go milky...
I knew I'd put the right amount of oil in the motor so popped the rad cap off and put my finger in, which came out dry.
Fortunatly I check my oil level before and after going out for a ride, so no damage was done.
I stripped out the alternator case and changed the seal only cost apart from the seal was that I had to throw away the contaminated new oil and filter.
As i've said the oil floats on top of the water, your oilpump picks up from the bottom of the sump, so your pump was pumping water to the bigends...
Not good!
I think the 30 min's and 25km's were enough to shag your bottom end which let go causing the rest of the damage.
The knackerd bigends allowed the piston to hit the valves, which let go falling into the combustion chamber.
Which then caused the rest of the damage.
Of course I might be wrong here but...
If anyones got a better idea I'd like to hear it??
Steve
P.S. I've got a good pair of Ti' SPS rods going spare, which you could have cheap, but I think you'll need a lot more than just those.
I'd be looking for a complete new engine if I were you, it'll be a lot easier/cheaper than trying to salvage what's left of your motor.