749/999 HeadLight Mod

**Oz749s** · 05 Aug 07, 06:29 AM

749/999 Headlight Mod

A great little mod i pinched from another forum...thought you all might like..i used a little crimp connector from an auto shop that allows you to bridge the wires without the need to solder, but either way it works!

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Disclaimer: If your bike melts, burns, stall, falls over, or generally misbehaves in any way and you think it's my fault, try thinking some more.

This mod will probably work on other Ducs and other bikes, but proceed at your own risk. Personally, I wouldn't do this on a 748/916/996, etc as those bikes have enough going on for you to worry about.

Anyhow, here's the skinny:

Remove the left bar pod - remove the little phillips screw holding the high/low switch in: (pic1)

See the little jumper solderd in there, jumping the blue/yellow and red/yellow wires? Do this. Crappy pic alert...gonna have to squint a bit (pic2)

I've been running this for about a year now, no problems. It increases the draw by .1v, no big deal. Works great, and really helps the view on the road at night. Low beam is still just low beam and the flash to pass switch works as normal. High beam gives you both beams.

Also, when re-assembling the switch control body, make sure the fast idle lever is connected and seated in place properly, can be a bit fiddly...as it is spring loaded it will only stay on when the switch is tightened up on the bar...

Have Fun!

**stevemuzicman** · 05 Aug 07, 09:55 AM

Done it yesterday, works great cheers dude.

**andyrh** · 26 Oct 07, 08:30 PM

Having done a bit of homework with regards to this mod and the effect it has on the electrical system, I just to raise a word off warning.
When you have both lights on at the same time although voltage remains the same due to the regulator doing it's job the current running through the switch and wiring isystem s doubled.

It might be worth checking the switch body after the lights have been on for a while as I would expect it to be getting warm.

Not saying it's not a good idea, but the system wasn't designed for 10 amps

**hhhjesus** · 27 Oct 07, 12:20 AM

hmmm, interesting point you have raised there... ive had this mod done for about 2 months now no problems so far... but havent had both lights on for an really long journey time time yet. Anyone else done this mod had both lights on for a long journey yet?

**murf62** · 27 Oct 07, 06:53 AM

It's pretty rare that you get to have high beam on constantly for long periods of time, so it should be ok I would think.

**blackie** · 27 Oct 07, 10:23 AM

You could always take a feed straight from the battery (fused) & use the original wiring to just drive a relay , that way it will never melt as its just powering the relay to feed the real ooomph straight from the battery that powers all the lamps (bulbs grow in the ground)

If its gonna drive 10 amps then i suggest a cable dia of 2 to 2.5 mm ..

**Ghost** · 27 Oct 07, 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blackie

You could always take a feed straight from the battery (fused) & use the original wiring to just drive a relay , that way it will never melt as its just powering the relay to feed the real ooomph straight from the battery that powers all the lamps (bulbs grow in the ground)

If its gonna drive 10 amps then i suggest a cable dia of 2 to 2.5 mm ..

I did the relay route on my Ninja but have done this mod on the Duke. I think if any prob is going to occur it will be if there is any arcing when switching to dip and back. The longest ride I have done with mine was Coventry to Dover and it was on 90% of the time as the roads were really quiet in the early hours.

Phil

**Eviltwin** · 27 Oct 07, 12:02 PM

i find that a nice cavers helmet spot lamp works great and give a nice gentle wash of light were u turn ur head.IMO

**stevemuzicman** · 27 Oct 07, 06:58 PM

i did the mod the day after this was posted, I ride an hour or 2 every day with both lights on and no problem.

**saxman** · 14 Nov 07, 04:11 PM

Has anyone else had problems with this blowing the light fuse ?

I did the soldering and when I tested it neither light worked, I checked the fuse to see it had blown, I double checked that I had bridged the right connections, and I have.

Any tips ?

**Ghost** · 14 Nov 07, 05:23 PM

Oh dear, mine has been done 3 to 4 months and no prob at all. Are you absolutely sure that nothing is grounding out in the switch gear. with the switchgear off the bar try it again.

Phil

**andyrh** · 14 Nov 07, 05:44 PM

Saxman

I see a 1098 in your avatar, is that your bike?

If so maybe the switch gear internals are different to the 749/999

**saxman** · 14 Nov 07, 05:56 PM

I wish its mine, its a picture of the new 848 but I though it would look better in a proper colour ;-)

As for the switch, i'm going to fully dismantle it tomorrow for closer investigation, not too sure how to go about undoing my armature soldering attempts though.

**Ghost** · 14 Nov 07, 07:27 PM

There see hit the nail on the ead. The mod only works on the proper Red ones.

Phil

**saxman** · 15 Nov 07, 05:43 PM

OK trying to fault find and I have totally dismantled the switch and removed all the solder, and disconnected the wires from the switch. The fuse blows when I turn the lights on by the switch on the other handle bar, even with the beam selector switch disconnected. So I am beginning to think it might not have been my modding attempt, but I don't know what else it could be.