998 Bayliss - Engine Repair - Page 3

**safetyfish** · 10 Jul 08, 02:34 AM

Time for the heads to go on, but before that I had to do some sprucing up.
The replacement head was in need of some cosmetic attention.

First picture show where some of the paint was chipped off the cover plate
The replacement o-rings went in
and it all looks so much better using some of the original parts to replace tired looking bits.

**safetyfish** · 10 Jul 08, 02:42 AM

Said goodby to the piston for the last time. It is nothing personal, but if I do see that piston again it will be because I made a serious mistake somewhere along the way....fingers crossed

**safetyfish** · 10 Jul 08, 02:59 AM

Heads were torqued and I decided not to put the outer casing covers on in order to save weight while putting the engine into the frame. That and the fact that I am still struggling getting the gear selector fork to allign properly.

I got the engine next to the bike and then realised that I will need help lifting it in.

The next night two mates popped over, 20 minutes later the three engine hanging bolts were torqued up. Progress!!!!!

That is when I realise that the real work only starts now..... there is a million and one little things that have to be put back in the right place in the right order on the bike. I suffered the first injury also while putting back the exhaust pipes. Got my finger caught between two pipes while forcing them together by hand- For my effort I am now minus some skin and flesh on the tip of one finger. It is a difficult decision to make when you have struggled 30 minutes to get the pipes to allign and suddenly the soft fleshy part of your finger is caught between two pipes. You dont really want to pull things apart because it took so long to get it to line up, but the pain is enough to make me give a yelp. It is then that you realise the pipes now dont want to seperate any more and that my finger is now stuck properly.... did get it out eventually, but it took me another 20 minutes to line things back up again.....

**safetyfish** · 13 Jul 08, 03:48 AM

If you have never built a bike from scratch, be prepared to take things out and take three steps back every now and then. I have no idea in which sequence things are supposed to go in, and I just figure it out as I go along.

Overflow tank had to go in, but in my haste to check if the throttle body with butterfly valves will line up and fit I first had to undo everything and put the overflow tank in then the rest of the throttle bodies could go in.
One thing I am finding frustrating is that I have no idea on where some lines or cables are supposed to be routed through. If it looks OK, then it stays, for now at least

Looking at the picture, where does the fast idle cable go? Over or under? For now it is over..... this is just a simple example of many similar "problems"

**safetyfish** · 13 Jul 08, 03:55 AM

Next up, the cooling system.
Oil cooler, radiator and all the various pipes, clamps and wires..... and how do some of these things fit in there in the first place???

This is when I realise that in order to install the oil lines to the heads I have to take things apart first before I can get that sucker in behind a cover plate on the front cylinder... so we learn hey

**safetyfish** · 13 Jul 08, 06:01 AM

Casing cover went in, with a small hiccup.

One thing I have learned by now, if at all possible then first do a dry fit and check you have everything before fitting it for the final time. Then you check bolt locations and special instructions, then it all comes off and the three-bond goes on. As I was about to put the clutch side casing on for the final time I suddenly realize that the o-ring on the oil pump is missing.

10 minutes later and I still can not find that dastardly missing o-ring that was there a minute ago. Language Timothy!!!! Went through everything again and suddenly there it was hiding underneath a cleaning rag..... checked the three-bond and it was still tacky to the touch - casing went on and torqued it all up. Small disaster averted. (To clean the three-bond off the casing would have taken at least another half a day before I could get back to that stage again. )

Again, so we learn.....

**safetyfish** · 13 Jul 08, 06:28 AM

and now I am at the stage where my brain dont make sense of what is written on the internet, the Haynes manual or the workshop manual.

Haynes Manual suggest to get the Horisontal cylinder to TDC
At this point the timing gear shaft pulley is ligned up with the casing (first picture)

When in this position, the dots on the vertical cylinder should lign up with the top of the cylinder cover
(second picture)

Before stating the obvious, the dot on the right dont line up because the teeth marking and the red dot on the shaft are off by a tooth and a half
(third picture)

The dots on the horisontal cylinder should now line up with the valve cover casing joints.
(fourth picture)

If installing the belts with no reference marks, then there is a Ducati service tool you can use apparently, the t-marks on the cams are lined up in a certain way and the cam is then locked into position. You slip th ebelts on and off you go. A rough and ready installation but it will work with no damage.

Looking at the t-marks on my cams in relation to the dots and comparing them to pictures I have received from Chris at CJS - then something is clearly wrong with my installation. Those t-marks do not line up what so ever, and the dots have gone dotty so to speak

reference pictures supplied by a professional mechanic.
picture 5 and 6

Like they say in the movies - Houston, we have a problem!

Suggestions please...... Please remember that I have no access to special Ducati service tools, what else can I do to get these things line up properly?

SF

**andy.fletcher** · 13 Jul 08, 07:03 AM

if you take the belts off the cams will move off the marks under the spring tension of the rockers. Get the timing mark in the window lined up, make sure the crank pulley lines up, then when you put the belts on you will have to move the cam pulleys by hand and hold them against the spring tension while you put the belts on. There are tools on ebay like little plates that hold them in place to make it easier.

**safetyfish** · 13 Jul 08, 08:25 AM

Looking at my setup - the T-marks on the cams line up as follows when you first line up the dots as suggested by Haynes. (The Ducati manual is useless to me because it just says to use the special tool, which I dont have)

Vertical exhaust - 4 o'clock
Vertical intake - 11 o'clock

Horisontal exhaust - 4 o'clock
Horisontal intake - 4 o'clock

Looking at the professionaly done setup and how those t-marks line up

Vertical exhaust - 4 o'clock
Vertical intake - 4 o'clock

Horisontal exhaust - 3 o'clock
Horisontal intake - 4 o'clock

See my problem, that one t-mark is way off in relation to the others. Bu the dots line up as they are supposed to?

**CJS ducati** · 13 Jul 08, 11:13 AM

Copy my picture then turn the engine slowly by hand. If nothing hits the next step is to get the degree wheel out or the factory clamps. Haynes manuals can be wrong !

**Mr.R** · 13 Jul 08, 04:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CJS ducati

Haynes manuals can be wrong !

You've just won 1st prize in the 'Stating the ble*ding Obvious' contest Chris!

Steve

**Ghost** · 13 Jul 08, 04:40 PM

The first pic is the horiz cyl at TDC the next pic is the vert cyl which is on its way down the bore.

When you turn the engine slowly so the vert cyl is firing and at TDC the notches will be aligned like the horiz cyl in the first pic.

**CJS ducati** · 14 Jul 08, 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr.R

You've just won 1st prize in the 'Stating the ble*ding Obvious' contest Chris!

Steve

Can i have my gold star please dude

**safetyfish** · 14 Jul 08, 03:41 PM

Took my blood pressure tablets and went to the local Ducati stealers and see if we can come to some sort of mutually beneficial arrangement.

For them to put on my belts using the OEM tools they want a cool US$400. I explained that everything is in place and I have the new belts, no need for them to charge me for new belts and labor. All they have to do is line up the pulleys. Yes, they understand, that is the cheap price they explained. If I was to bring the bike in and they still have to take off fairings and tank etc then it will cost more.....

Just got home and checked Ducati Omaha online - US$365 for the tool if I order it online....... That is almost tempting........

Chris and Ghost, thank you for the pictures. These belts will go on the old fashioned way using tool number Mark One Eyeball. Thank you again for the help

SF

**Ghost** · 14 Jul 08, 05:36 PM

To be doubly sure treat it as 2 seperate engines as you can see when horiz is at tdc and firing clearance on all valves, the cutouts are at 3,9 & 12 O'clock.

The vert cyl is just going down on its induction stroke, so continue turning over till it comes up to fire and get this cyl on tdc, the cutouts should be the same at 3,9 & 12 O'clock.

Also don't fall into the trap of the belt drive roller being 2:1, it has the same number of teeth as the camshafts. So it will go round once to two crank revolutions.

Sorry if I was stating the obvious.