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Old 03 Apr 08, 08:06 AM   #1 (permalink)
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New ECU

Ok i am close to biting the bullet and getting a new ECU for my 2002 Bip. I have had it two years now and while it has run brilliantly (up to last Sept) there has always been a couple of issues i have not managed to fix or get fixed. From day one the spanner light on the dash has been on, i have had it serviced three times and each time they have been unable to clear it. While the bike starts just fine it has never started as i understand it should, ie press the start button once let go and the starter motor will turn until the engine fires. I have always had to keep my finger on the button until it fires. (like my Honda VFR) Only about twice has the starter motor kept turning but each time the motor refused to fire. I turned the ignition off and back on and the bike started fine albeit with my finger on the switch. I get the EODB light come on and off at will...each time the error codes show the speed sensor or signal panel sensor are at fault. It may not come on for ages, then it will come and go over a journey, everything runs fine tho. Finally after 20 months of riding it and it running just fine (fantastic infact) i had it serviced and it left the garage running like a pig, they took it back and checked everything, the re adjusted the CO2 levels and it ran better but still it is awfull. They seem to suggest they cannot get it back tyo how it was without trying a new ECU. I would rather fit one myself than pay them to do it. Finally my question (are you still awake?)

Can i just fit a brand new ECU (plug and play) and the bike will run? I understand i have to code it with the red key and i will have to get the fuelling set up properly, but will the bike run sufficiently to get it to a garage for mapping? Are there any other points i need to be aware of? I have a half termi system on the bike with the correct air filters....

Any help will be much appreciated.

regards
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Old 03 Apr 08, 08:19 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Whilst I am a great one for DIY, I think if I were spending so much on a new ECU, and then having to rely on a garage to remap it, I would buy the ECU and get it fitted and adjusted where I bought it from. Otherwise if there are any issues each firm will blame the other, or you, and you will carry the risk if it doesnt run properly.

Anyway persumably the fitting of the ECU wont cost too much extra if it is done at the same time as the remapping.
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Old 03 Apr 08, 08:52 AM   #3 (permalink)
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When a new ECU is fitted the TPS needs zeroing in. This can only be done in software via the mathesis or DDS, else on of the proprietory software packages like technoresearch for instance.
The base CO settings will also need adjusting. In short, it will need to go into a dealer tbh.

Not all the bikes start with the one touch button. Especially the earlier models. I wouldn't view that as a problem with your ECU

Is the poor running, post service, ECU related?? What else did they replace for instance? Could be a duff plug (even new ones can be at fault)
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Old 03 Apr 08, 02:18 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Rough running was post service, however the other ECU issues have been ever since i have owned it. The service consisted of fluids and belts but not plugs, they tried to get the plugs out but didnt have the right tool. I have since changed the plugs myself and the problem is still there.

Instictively i would say it is a fueling problem and not electrical or mechanical...I have checked the tank and the filter and there is no rust, no pinched pipes etc, the exhaust just doesnt smell like it should (sounds silly i know but it just doesnt). The CO2 was checked and was fine....Its really horrible to ride, its fine when cruising down the A1, plenty of power but from idle to speed its horrible, a slight opening of the throttle causes the engine to die.....
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Old 03 Apr 08, 04:35 PM   #5 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=richie1967_uk;166168 . The service consisted of fluids and belts but not plugs, they tried to get the plugs out but didnt have the right tool.



If they didnt have the right tool for plugs can you be sure everything else was done correctly?
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Old 03 Apr 08, 04:49 PM   #6 (permalink)
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If it was running ok prior to the service, I would opt for they have done something wrong , perhaps .

They may have the cam timing out if the belts were done. Possibly to cover their behind they may say it requires an ecu. Too much of a coincidence for my cynical noggin.

I can fill up with petrol turn on ignition and the eobd light stays on. This occurs once in a while turn ignition off wait 30 secs try again and all ok.

Fickkle things
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Old 03 Apr 08, 06:06 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Richie,

If I were you I would take it to Nelly or JHP and get them to check it out properly. I'll bet it will save you the cost of an ECU, and it will run as sweet as a nut afterwards!

Last edited by Douglas; 03 Apr 08 at 07:42 PM. Reason: typo!
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Old 03 Apr 08, 06:13 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Old 03 Apr 08, 08:22 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Indeed a second opinion before you shell out your hard earned.. the last thing you want is a coded ecu that you can't return..
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Old 03 Apr 08, 08:40 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Usually the service light not being able to be turned off it is the fault of the clockset not the CPU
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Old 08 Apr 08, 07:07 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Well I spent a few hours Saturday night trawling thru old posts trying to come up with a solution. I awoke Sunday morning determined to fix my 999's rough running, so here is what i did.....

Stripped tank and cleaned it, replaced fuel filter (never been done i suspect) and fuel pipe (it had a slight kink)
Removed airbox and checked everything
New spark plugs and checked/cleaned coils
and also checked and adjusted the throttle and choke cables. (there was no play at all)

Now i dont want to jinx it but it is running so much better, starts fine and idles great, the most annoying problem was the engine dying when opening the throttle which it is now alot less inclined to do, i think the biggest difference to this was to adjust the throttle cables. I am going to have the C)2 levels checked this weekend to make sure they are correct but hopefully that has fixed it!!

Thanks to all the people who took time to post thier fixes...too many to mention. Now it is running fine its time to attatch the later swing arm i have had sitting here for months and the Ohlin forks...

cheers
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Old 18 Apr 08, 08:41 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Well i thought i had fixed the problem, but went for a ride last weekend and it was back with a vengance!! I managed a few miles until the bike just died (at 70mph onthe A1!!) The bike restarted fine, would go for another mile or so then die...This happened all the way home (stopped about 10 times). Definately fuel starvation so i stripped the tank again and inspected the pump assembly. I carefully removed the pump and found a fine mesh filter under neath (in the workshop manual it says not to use compressed air on it as it tears easily) It was clogged to hell....Phoned Daytona and its 400 quid for a new assembly!!! so i thought i woud have a go at cleaning it.....I stripped everything i could from the unit and using some fluid used for cleaning injectors i put the part in an ultrasonic bath at work....Left for 15 mins and WOW, i couldnt believe the crud that came out!!...incredible fine particles which formed a clay/mud like substance. Anyway the mesh turned from brown back to white...assembled the tank and she started fine...I had to go to bagshot Monday so risked taking the duke and all i can say is its like a new bike!! I have had it for two years and having never ridden another duke i had nothing to compare it with, i thought it was quick but by god now its like a rocket!!!....

So if you change your fuel filter and still have running problems check under the pump and see if the mesh is clogged....
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Old 18 Apr 08, 09:15 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Good post Richie well done. Those ultra sonic cleaners a brill. Put you hand in and watch the crap come out from under your nails.
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Old 18 Apr 08, 05:27 PM   #14 (permalink)
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chuffed as nuts

Just back from an afternoons blat have had some problems of late what started off what was thought to be a failed startermotor turned out to be The META alarm ! one replaced starter and solinoid + relay later.Removed alarm and away she went fired up first time bloody alarm for sale if anyone interested. Anyway my point is Carl Harrison the Ducati Guru who found the problem and advised the solution had taken the race ecu out and put original standard one in as part of the elimination to what the fault was as no error codes etc had come up . Anyway "again" he put race one back in an reprogramed rebooted whatever it is they do and AWESOME never has it run so good top man and thanks, it to is running like a new bike !
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Old 18 Apr 08, 06:16 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Good work richie!

Have you got a workshop manual? they're very good and detailed, and are easily avaialble. If you search on here you should be able to find a link to obtain one.
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