Error code 10.2 = Horizontal Coil shorted to earth

**toddp31** · 28 Jun 08, 06:54 AM

I have been getting an intermitted error code 10.2. But I cant not seem to duplicate when or how it is happening.

The first time it happened I was out for a short 20 min ride and she dropped to one cylinder. After I got back to the house I changed the front coil, but still the same problem. Then I took apart the battery mess and checked all the wiring for any issues, but i couldnt find any issues. After cleaning up the wiring routing and reinstailling the battery, the bike started fine. There were no longer any error codes and I thought I might of got lucky and found the problem. But today when I went to start the bike, she didnt want to start. Battery voltage was fine and could hear the fuel pump. When she did start the check engine light came on and she was running on one cylinder again. Also had the 10.2 error code back again.

I also searched on the here and a few guys were having the same issues. So I am going to be change the fuel pump relay and check the connector on the right side of the airbox.

I have a track day coming up in two week and really dont have to experance this at the track.

Thanks in advance for all your help.

**safetyfish** · 29 Jun 08, 05:30 AM

Open all the associated connectors and check the internal pins if they are seated properly. (Coil, ecu, airbox plug etc)
Something is loose somewhere or it is making a short to ground on that circuit. Good luck trying to find it.

SF

**toddp31** · 29 Jun 08, 10:27 PM

Hopefully it is the same problem that you had. With the connector on the right side of the airbox. Do you remember which pin was the problem on your bike? Also do you know what that connector does?

**safetyfish** · 30 Jun 08, 03:17 AM

I can not remember which pin it was, but it was enough to cause a headache and a half. That specific connection supplies signals to the injectors and from the TPS. But here is the weird thing with these bikes, because it is on a CAN network, a problem on one part of a circuit sometimes is shown as an error code on another system that is interconnected.
In this case the injectors and the coil signal share a common signal somewhere along their wires. You get a problem on one, it is shown as a fault code on another. The problem is finding the spot where that faulty signal is generated, and it could be anything that is causing it.

Good luck with your searching

SF

**toddp31** · 30 Jun 08, 05:08 PM

I took the bike apart today and checked the coil connector pins. Everything seems to be fine with the connector there. Traced the wire (brown and white) all the way to the airbox connector. (I believe it is pin B) Pins seems to look fine, but going to get the fluke meter and start checking everything.

Is there a place I can get a wiring diagram online?

**safetyfish** · 01 Jul 08, 03:32 AM

duc.nu>> ducati pictures, manuals, movies, racing and more...

Download the workshop manual from there. Costs Euro 2.50 a download, well worth it.

The manual has the wiring diagram in it.

Good luck there mate

SF

**toddp31** · 10 Jul 08, 10:54 PM

Latest update:

Got tired of troubleshooting and took the bike to the dealership. The bike needed to have it 12k service anyway. Well Ducati cant isolate the problem and suggested to buy a new main harness. They have seen a few 999 and 749 with the same problem and changing the harness fixes the problems.

This really made me angry that they have no concern for finding the real problem. They just want you buy there crazy expensive harness. I know that someone working in the shop has to have some knowlegde of the electrical system. ( I hope) This has been a problem on quite a few bikes. Maybe we could solve this problem for our customers. NOPE

So now I am on a personal mission to find the problem. I think if I can build helicopters I can find the problem. It may take a while, but wish me luck.

Safetyfish, when you removed the connector on the airbox. Could you see that the connector was not contacting? Or did you use and fluke meter and just tell by the reading.

**safetyfish** · 12 Jul 08, 02:29 AM

When inspecting the connector I noticed that the one pin does not seat properly on the male side. If you push it with a fingernail it retracted into the connector housing. And that was my cause of my problems. (Thanks for the flashback)
The complete harness was removed from the bike and was then checked one by one by one....and crossed off on a wiring diagram.In total it took over 10 hours of work tracing the wires and getting things back together again. Wherever there was insulation tape used, it was taken off completely to visually check each and every wire and then fix it back up again.
Take plenty of pictures from all angles when removing things like this in order to get it back in again. Especially behind the battery box.

If you can build helicopters you will be fine with working on bikes. At least bikes dont drop out of the sky if you make a mistake.

Good luck there in finding the problem.

SF

**toddp31** · 14 Jul 08, 01:29 PM

Thanks for all your help....Sorry to bring back your nightmares

**MrTurner** · 14 Jul 08, 06:38 PM

Where abouts are you based mate? Someone might be able to recommend someone half decent near you to shed some light on it?

**nelly** · 14 Jul 08, 09:09 PM

The coils on 749/999 can be temperamental, especially the early ones. Combined plug cap/coil gets a soaking or dirty, especially the front pot. This gives the error code.
The early coils have the connector on the head of the unit, the later type use a fly lead, but still suffer. Water can get into the plug hole. As it gets hot, it vapours and gets into the coil, and misfires. When it's cold, the water has run out....
Pull them out, WD40 or such like for cleaning, dry them and grease the neck when you replace them. Blow out the plug hole to. Contact grease on the connector. Try swaping the coils over to see if the problem moves to the other cylinder.
Many of the sensor earths are shared from the ECU, so as SF mentioned, the error code that comes up may be a red herring, although yours dropping to one cylinder may not be.
The earth connection at the battery terminal is terrible for corroding. There are maybe a dozen wires in the connection. One breaks and you get an itermittant error. Check also the earth connection at the base on the LHS of the rear cylinder (ring connector), that can come loose.

**toddp31** · 15 Jul 08, 03:46 PM

Nelly: I have changed the coil packs and spark plugs and no change. Currently I have the harness off the bike and checking all the wires. (one by one) (fun) But before taking the harness off the bike, I ensure all the grounds were well grounded.

Before I took the harness off, I could get the bike to regularly dupicate the error. When the bike passes 6k-8k it drops the front cylinder and the check engine light comes on. Then I pull over and disconnect the front coil pack with the ignition off. Then once I restart the bike it is on one cylinder and the check engine light is on. But once I give the bike some throttle is goes back to both cylinders.

SF, on the connector that goes into the air box. I noticed that I can move two or three of the male conectors wires about 1mm. Did you just push the wires back in the connector. Or did you use something to prevent them from moving?

Also I noticed that the rubber boot that contains the female connector can spin. I havent taken off the airbox yet, cant get one screw up front under the frame. Going to get the proper tools and look inside. But is it possiable for the wire in the air box to get twisted?

I will be the airbox today and I will give you an update....Hopefully find this problem.

**Ghost** · 15 Jul 08, 04:19 PM

Airbox lifts off complete with throttle bodies don't try and take the lid off in situ, major hard work. Just undo the ram tubes and the clips to the manifolds.

**nelly** · 15 Jul 08, 06:31 PM

If it appears to be rpm related, check the crank sensor. Just forward of the water pump, LHS engine casing. It's on the same earth circuit as the other sensors/coils.
There's an ohm reading for it but that's not too reliable a diagnosis i'm afraid. IIRC it's 380 ohms, across 2 of the 3 terminals and infinity to earth. Check also the air gap. There an access via a plug on the front edge of the engine casing. You'll need the battery tray out of the way though.

**safetyfish** · 16 Jul 08, 03:36 AM

To get the front screw off the airbox I had to take my radiator off and use lots of patience. And then some more. That screw did not go back into the airbox again if ever there is a next time.

The little pins push in and are supposed to lock down into position. If you apply any pressure from the direction of fitment they should not be able to move back into their mountings at all. If they do make sure they are seated properly.

Check your negative connection to the battery. I just used a big soldering iron and "refreshed" the conenctions down there while I was able to get to it.

How is your solenoids now you have free access to them?

I hope you took lots of pictures on how those wires are routed. What tape are you using to put the insulation back that you have removed?

Hope you find the culprit?

SF