Errors 37.3 and 38.0

[dammage]

Was preping for a trackday and was about to put the bike on the trailer and now nothing...

Here is the Sequence of events:

1. Unplugged headlights, removed rear tail light assembly, front turn signals and all "Street going" Body work
2. Bike was washed, dried, started and run with out fairings and aforementioned components on for a few minutes.
3. Racing fairings were installed and handle bar tie down strap was put on for transport in a trailer.
4. Handle bar tie down was holding horn button in.
5. Key was turned on and Starter button was pressed.
6. I believe the bike turned over, but was as immediately turned off as horn was on(Startled me).
7. Found handlebar tie down holding horn button and removed.
8. Attempted to start again. Would not turn over...
9. Noticed Dash was in km and C° (999 EU setting). Dash had reset itself???
10. Reset Dash to "999 US" Setting. (Key on and Hold Both selector buttons on Dash indicator)
11. Attempted to start again, would not turn starter over. Noticed fuel Pump would not prime system, EOBD light was on and CODE indicator was flashing.
12. Believed the immobilizer had locked engine. Attempted to unlock via the Code card and Throttle method. Would not accept Step 1 in owners manual (EOBD light would not turn off for step 2)
13. Checked for EFI errors (Key on and Left Dash selector button) Found 37.3 and 38.0. Additionally noticed that the dash is displaying 32°F and nothing at the bottom right corner after keying bike off and back on again.
14. Checked all connections and wires visually for abrasion, water and obvious faults; found none....

Error Codes:

"EOBD Light" is on
"CODE indicator" is flashing

37.3 immobilizer (serial cable disconnected)
38.0 CAN line Error


According to the error information, I am assuming it is one of the following issues:

-ECU Module is bad or locked up
-DASH Indicator module is bad or locked up
-CAN BUS DATA+ or DATA- wire path is open(Not shorted, as I believe I found +/- data two wires with my osciliscope and there was data being passed)?
-Bad power or ground to ECU

Is it possible that the horn button being on while keying the bike on and trying to start could do this? It is a long shot, but my thought is the load between starting the bike and the horn being may have exacerbated a weak ground or power to the ECU (Read other posts that had these errors with fixing that as a resolution). I am looking into this but am tied up at the moment trying to obtain a service manual and wiring diagrams for the '05 (Read; could anyone help with that? found a 999r one not sure how well it crosses). Any thoughts on the problem stated ???

Sidenote: Somewhat peeved that I had to miss the trackday with no refund.

[Lucazade 749s]

Originally Posted by dammage

Was preping for a trackday and was about to put the bike on the trailer and now nothing...


Here is the Sequence of events:

1. Unplugged headlights, removed rear tail light assembly, front turn signals and all "Street going" Body work
2. Bike was washed, dried, started and run with out fairings and aforementioned components on for a few minutes.
3. Racing fairings were installed and handle bar tie down strap was put on for transport in a trailer.
4. Handle bar tie down was holding horn button in.
5. Key was turned on and Starter button was pressed.
6. I believe the bike turned over, but was as immediately turned off as horn was on(Startled me).
7. Found handlebar tie down holding horn button and removed.
8. Attempted to start again. Would not turn over...
9. Noticed Dash was in km and C° (999 EU setting). Dash had reset itself???
10. Reset Dash to "999 US" Setting. (Key on and Hold Both selector buttons on Dash indicator)
11. Attempted to start again, would not turn starter over. Noticed fuel Pump would not prime system, EOBD light was on and CODE indicator was flashing.
12. Believed the immobilizer had locked engine. Attempted to unlock via the Code card and Throttle method. Would not accept Step 1 in owners manual (EOBD light would not turn off for step 2)
13. Checked for EFI errors (Key on and Left Dash selector button) Found 37.3 and 38.0. Additionally noticed that the dash is displaying 32°F and nothing at the bottom right corner after keying bike off and back on again.
14. Checked all connections and wires visually for abrasion, water and obvious faults; found none....

Error Codes:

"EOBD Light" is on
"CODE indicator" is flashing

37.3 immobilizer (serial cable disconnected)
38.0 CAN line Error


According to the error information, I am assuming it is one of the following issues:

-ECU Module is bad or locked up
-DASH Indicator module is bad or locked up
-CAN BUS DATA+ or DATA- wire path is open(Not shorted, as I believe I found +/- data two wires with my osciliscope and there was data being passed)?
-Bad power or ground to ECU

Is it possible that the horn button being on while keying the bike on and trying to start could do this? It is a long shot, but my thought is the load between starting the bike and the horn being may have exacerbated a weak ground or power to the ECU (Read other posts that had these errors with fixing that as a resolution). I am looking into this but am tied up at the moment trying to obtain a service manual and wiring diagrams for the '05 (Read; could anyone help with that? found a 999r one not sure how well it crosses). Any thoughts on the problem stated ???

Sidenote: Somewhat peeved that I had to miss the trackday with no refund.

Washed my 749, tried to start it after that and got the same problem. Fuel pump not priming, EOBD light on and Code indicator flashing. Tried the card but did not want to accept step one. Called RAC (assistance) and was trying to get it sorted for an hour. Just before we decided to take it ot dealer we found a small fuse next to battery. If you look from front of bike it is right hand side just before battery. Two fuses there. One of them is like 5amp and is from immobliser. Change it
If that does not help look at the cables going from it. My one was burned as heat shield from horizontal cylinder is not long enough.

[dammage]

Thanks for the help,

I checked the fuses, but will check that again.

There was a line on the main connector between the Dash and the ECU(immediately below tank on left side) that was reading 7.5 to 8 volts with my osciliscope and I believe it is the culpret. Just got a hold of a Wiring diagram, need to look through a slew of things. Will check your recommendation first though.

I guess on a positive note, most people that have reported this have fixed it without a new ecu or other exspensive purchases.

[nogaromill999]

Take the main fuse out for a minute then replace it.....or take the clocks off, then refit them......everything then resets itself and you MAY find its all sorted......it works when the display 'freezes' up....

[andyrh]

From a situation I had with my 749, I would recommend removing each fuse in turn including the 40 amp fuse underneath ish the engine, then give it a go

Don't forget to re-fit the fuse before giving it a go!

[safetyfish]

Your bike does not see the ECU for some reason

Make sure the immobeliser pickup ring is seated properly underneath the ignition key.
Follow the immobeliser wire and make sure it is connected properly
My bike refuse to start if there is no tail light, some sort of safety feature apparently....
Do a hard reset by disconnecting battery and leave it off for a minute or two
When you cycle the bike, have you done a throttle reset where you open throttle fully, key on, bike cycles and then close throttle (forces the bike to look for the immobeliser code on the key in the ignition)

Good luck

SF

[dammage]

Well gents...

It looks terminal for the ECU. I did a slew of tests on the harness. The ECU is getting all of the signals (Serial and CANBUS) and power (Keysens and Run) it needs. I let the ECU sit completely disconnected for a day or so, reinstalled and tried. I did all of the reset procedures mentioned. I checked all grounds for continuity from the ECU connector. I even did a bench test mimicking the Key/Run switches and I get nothing. I would expect a blip or something on the CAN lines or the KEYLOCK line (Serial data). The serial line does go high but then nothing after…

Guess it is time for a new ECU. Nemesis perhaps… Sadly, I am out of warranty by 4 months. May try to finagle this with my dealer as we only ride these things 6mo out the year here…

Thanks all for the suggestions...

[moto748]

Good luck. I hope you get some joy from your dealer.

[dewky]

Is the CAN line earth properly connected?It is normally earthed to one of the bolts holding the ECU.Disconnecting it will show those 2 error codes.