Ducati 999 / 749 DIY Rear Wheel Removal

[XP]

Hi everyone...

Well as the title suggests, heres another DIY thread which is based on helping 999 / 749 owners with basic maintenance to keep their pride and joy up to speed.

This thread is aimed at basic rear wheel removal for the 'Cast' swinging arm model, although there is hardly any difference to removing the rear wheel from the 'Braced' swinging arm version (Which I'll add photo's of at a later date)

Anyway heres the thread and I hope it's of use to everyone as a guide...


XP
999 Forum Moderator



Tools Needed

1) 1/2" Drive 36mm Hex Socket (Bi-Hex if aftermarket Titanium nut is fitted)
2) 1/2" Drive Breaker Bar
3) 2 x 4mm 'T' bar Hex Keys (Allen Keys)
4) Rag
5) Grease
6) Paddock Stand
7) Rubber Faced Mallet


The tools listed above are what I find are the best to complete this job.....others may have their own methods which I'm more than happy to have added to the end of this thread...

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Ducati 999 / 749 Rear Wheel Removal Guide


STAGE 1 'Getting Ready to Remove the Wheel'
Picture 1

Classic view of the cast swinging arm and rear wheel of a 999/749

1) Place paddock stand under the swinging arm to raise rear wheel off the ground


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STAGE 2 'Rear Wheel Spindle Nut Removal'
Picture 2

2) Using your 36mm Hex Socket and Breaker bar, crack open the rear wheel spindle nut and remove it.


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STAGE 3 + 4
Picture 3+4

3) In order to loosen off the 'Tension Lock Nuts' I find the best way is to use 2x 4mm 'T' Bar Hex Keys as shown in the 'Picture 3'

..Hold key 'A' and with key 'B' turn clockwise to undo the lock nut....once this has been acheived use your finger to adjust 'B' lock nut right up against 'A'

You can then wind 'A' right back to the adjuster slider as in 'Picture 4' this will allow the rear wheel to be pushed as far forward as it can go in order to remove the chain which is explained further on..





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STAGE 5 'R/H Adjuster Slider Plate Removal'
Picture 5

5) As shown in 'Picture 5' the R/H Adjuster Slider Plate can now been removed which will again give more access and space when it comes to remove the chain and the rear wheel spindle which is explained in the next few stages.


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STAGE 6,7 'Chain Removal'
Pictures 6,7

6) Now tha the spindle is loose, push the rear wheel towards the engine, it should slide very easily and you'll note the chain becomes very loose.

With one of your hands, lift the links as shown in 'Picture 6' up and at the same time with your other hand roll the rear wheel in the direction as shown (backwards)...this will allow the chain to be pulled slight away and then off the sprocket.

7) Now that the chain has come off the sprocket and to save scratching your swinging arm, have an old rag/cloth handy just to lay under the chain against the swinging arm.

.. Try and rest the chain as far away from the sprocket as you can as it can get in the way when you come to remove the wheel itself.





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STAGE 8 'Rear Wheel Spindle Removal'
Picture 8

8.) Now that the chain has been removed, you can remove the 'rear wheel spindle'.

The best way to remove this if you cant push it through by hand is to use a 'rubber faced mallet' to help push it through to removal. (As shown in 'Picture 8')



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STAGE 9,10 'Rear Wheel Removal'
Picture 9,10

9) Once the spindle has been removed the wheel should 'hang' in place until you 'lift' and 'pull back'

The best way I find to remove the wheel is by placing my 'left' hand where the two 'red' indicator arrows are shown in 'Picture 9'
Taking the weight of the wheel and guiding it back to the point the rear brake caliper nearly has contact with the inside of the rim, at this point I slightly rotate the wheel to my right in order to clear the caliper and then the wheel will slide straight out....

10) The wheel is removed showing the rear caliper /speedo sensor mount ('Picture 10')




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Job Done.......

Fingers crossed you should have now removed the rear wheel ready to do what ever you need to.........


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The following Stages/Pictures are a just a few hints when it's time to re-fit the wheel......


HINT 1 'Storage of Chain'


1) While the rear wheel is out of the frame it's a good idea to refit the sprocket carrier along with the spindle and re-thread the chain back on to it......just save scratching the frame/swinging arm and tidys things up. (Picture 11)


HINT 2 'Brake/Speed Sensor Bracket Guide Pin'

2) 'Picture 11' shows the rear brake/Speed sensor bracket and the 'Guide Pin' located in the bracket slot.......


..Its very important that when you come to re-fit the wheel that this 'Guide Pin' is located within the brackets slot otherwise you wont be able to re fit the wheel correctly...



HINT 3 'Correct Spindle / Adjuster alignment'

3) 'Picture 11' also shows the rear wheel spindle located with the adjuster slide correctly....


..You need to check that the spindle is located correctly withing the adjuster slider otherwise when you come to tighten the spindle up it could come loose once your riding..






HINT 4 'Re-Tightening the Tensioner Lock Nuts'

4) Once the wheel/spindle/chain and adjuster slide plates have been replaced pull the wheel to the rear as far as it will go and then wind the 'Tensioner Lock Nuts' back up to the face of the swinging arm as in the picture below.

Once they are finger tight, look at the side of each 'Adjuster Plate' and you will see a series of 'Marks', these marks are there for you to adjusts the wheel so it is running true and in a straight a line....

The last picture shows this along with the swinging arm indicator mark which you need to match the 'Marks' up on, on eitherside.

..You not only need to ensure the wheels straight, you also need to ensure that you chain has been correctly tensioned.
The Owners manual states "When tension is correct, the slack of the lower portion of chain should be set between 32mm and 37mm ideally (up and down) Refer to page 63 in your Ducati owners manual.

Once everything has been adjusted back up, you can now re-tighten the 36mm spindle bolt back up to the correct torque setting......





Job Finished..........


Well, I hope this thread has been of some use to you all........but if theres anything missing that you want to know more about let me know.....or if you wish to add to the thread some further information then please do......

Cheers



XP

[Red]

Good one thanks alot

[Duc999s]

Nice one XP! Thanks.

[jeff749s]

Thanks xp,

What is the torque setting please?,

[jeff749s]

Its ok, i have found it, 180 nm

[Ghost]

Andy well done for that I found it a good read and as I know how to do it was looking for the deliberate mistake.


Guess what I found it. Chain tension pic 11 should be set between 32mm and 37mm ideally 35mm from the flat bobbin on the arm underside to rivet centres you have quoted 25mm but I think that was just a touch of fit fangers hitting the wrong keys.


Phil

[Triple9]

Originally Posted by Ghost

Andy well done for that I found it a good read and as I know how to do it was looking for the deliberate mistake.


Guess what I found it. Chain tension pic 11 should be set between 32mm and 37mm ideally 35mm from the flat bobbin on the arm underside to rivet centres you have quoted 25mm but I think that was just a touch of fit fangers hitting the wrong keys.


Phil

Mistake or not,Ducati DID quote 25mm tension on the early 999's.I had a '52' reg'd bike and 25mm was quoted on the swingarm sticker and handbook.
They obviously realised that was too tight and changed it on the later bikes.

[Ghost]

Originally Posted by Triple9

Mistake or not,Ducati DID quote 25mm tension on the early 999's.I had a '52' reg'd bike and 25mm was quoted on the swingarm sticker and handbook.
They obviously realised that was too tight and changed it on the later bikes.

Wrist suitably slapped.

Phil

[XP]

Valid point gents and well pointed out..........


I made a quick referal to the Owners Manual while I was typing the thread......I've just looked at the date and it was printed 07/2002 so obviously is out of date regarding the chain tension....

So thanks for pointing that out Ghost.....and thanks Triple9 for backing up the mistake.....

XP

[XP]

Oh.....and I've just set the record straight by amending the thread.......

[Gizmo]

nice write up however there is no need to loosen the chain tensioners if you are just removing the wheel for a tyre change, leave as is, slide axle out and when wheel drops move it forward and unhook chain is all i do.

[XP]

Originally Posted by Gizmo

nice write up however there is no need to loosen the chain tensioners if you are just removing the wheel for a tyre change, leave as is, slide axle out and when wheel drops move it forward and unhook chain is all i do.

Thanks for that Gizmo......

All down to what people find the easist I guess....


XP

[vaultertim]

Great write up XP

I agree with Gizmo re. chain tensioners though. There's no real need and personally I find it's just less work to have to wind them in and back out again when they're already set up. But as you say, personal preference I suppose

Cheers

Tē

[Simonhi]

XP ... You da man !!!

When it comes to it I want to be able to remove both wheels so I can fit me own tyres ... With the threads showing how to balance a new wheel / tyre this thread completes the circle, proving once again why this is a great forum.

Cheers

Si

[Kes]

Thanks for taking the time to do this XP,
I'm sure it'll only be a matter of time before Haynes offers you a gig!
BTW, that bike of yours is soooo clean! Exquisite!!