SS clutch springs

**Cess pit** · 03 Sep 08, 09:46 AM

Ive just put some stainless steel clutch springs on the S4r and now the clutch is a lot firmer, the amount of lever travel is less and the biting point is very close to the point where the lever is fully extended.
I havent touched the clutch plate and the springs were replaced individually, I did not remove all the springs in one go before installing the new ones, they were swapped one at a time.
They were tightened corner to corner to ensure even pressure...if that makes sense, and I havent over tightened them.
I am wondering if the springs I got from Carbon Trader are somehow stronger or a little longer than the originals. failing this I am at a loss, especially as with the springs hand tight the clutch feel, pressure and travel at the lever is back to normal. Do the bolts up tight and my problem returns.
Any suggestions guys....I am fully prepared for an obvious answer as Im a technical nugget.

**brian91cfr** · 03 Sep 08, 09:53 AM

did you fit new spring end/cup washers with the new springs ?

brian.

**Cess pit** · 03 Sep 08, 09:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brian91cfr

did you fit new spring end/cup washers with the new springs ?

brian.

yes, new springs and the anodised end cups

**Rob998** · 03 Sep 08, 09:59 AM

A lot of SS springs are stronger/firmer than the original mild steel. I've read about some guys fitting springs that have rendered their clutches virtually unusable.

When I fitted my SS springs I did notice that the action was a little firmer, but I've either got used to it, or they've softened up a little.

How tight did you do them up? They only need to be 5nm.

**nogaromill999** · 03 Sep 08, 10:25 AM

Take 2 out then....all the race clutches run only 4 springs....obviously take out 2 that are opposite each other, that should make the action a little lighter..or fit an aftermarket slave....they are alleged to make the action about 30% lighter but I have only ever found ONE that does what it says on the tin, the rest just look nice.....and I CERTAINLY wouldnt torque them up..hand tight then a nip is more than enough unless you want to risk snapping the towers off.....

**brian91cfr** · 03 Sep 08, 10:30 AM

the depth of the new spring cups might be less than the old ones.
take a new one off and check it .
if it not as deep .when you tighten them up it tightens the springs
much more than the deep cup washer.
when you pull the clutch lever in dose it lock solid before it comes back to the handle grip?
to keep the new springs and the new cup washers and get the softer feel back
you can put 5mm small penny washers on the back of the cup washers.

brian.

**Cess pit** · 03 Sep 08, 10:33 AM

Brilliant guys, thanks.
I shall try 4 springs and or the washers idea. just to let you know the bolts were only nip tightened.

**DukeDesmo** · 04 Sep 08, 09:08 PM

I bought some Stainless springs a few years back, just because mine looked a bit 'cack'. They are stronger than the originals so, as a test I took 2 out - much lighter, smoother and easier to find neutral & I have not noticed any slippage.

**Pax** · 06 Sep 08, 09:52 AM

Yup! 4 springs is the way to go, I have been running 4 springs on the Multi and its fine also did it on the 900ssie, again no problems at all.